People are constantly asking what it's like in Gaza. I've described it verbally, by text, and still photos (see previous posts on this blog). Here, now is a video log of my current trip made to give you a real feel for Gaza.
(Note: As the locals do, I frequently use "Gaza" to refer to the "Gaza Strip" and use "Gaza City" when referring to the main city of the Gaza Strip.)
I decided that making the videos from the front seat of a car would be ideal so that you view, feel, and hear as you would if you came - complete with bumps, stops, jams, quick turns, ambient noise, etc. Forgive my primitive video skills - I get better over time as you'll see. Often I'll hold the camera close to me so as not to intrude and feel less conspicuous - resulting in a lot of dashboard!
In the clip below, you are finishing the 90 minute drive from Jerusalem, traveling on Route 3, then Route 4, then this turn to the Israeli terminal at the Erez Crossing. In the "old days" (i.e., when I first arrived in 1995) there was just a rudimentary check-point with a set of huts and concrete blocks. All one had to do was show a passport. Progressively, entry (and exit) has become stricter. Then this massive terminal was constructed in some fancy that there would be a lot of traffic in and out. But, fewer and fewer have been allowed in or out.
It resembles an airport terminal, with numerous immigration stations inside. No photos are permitted inside or in any proximity to the outside.
Erez is the only passenger crossing from Israel to Gaza. Now, it requires advance permission from the Israeli military, to be achieved on your behalf by a Gazan institution or INGO.
The process within the terminal has several steps: to one booth to get a paper copy of the advance permit; to another booth to check passport, etc; a long walk in a narrow passage; a turnstile the width of your shoulders (one learns over time how to navigate such stiles with baggage); a short walk until a second identical turnstile; then wait until a heavy iron gate slides slowly open.
For all steps, one waits for access to be signaled by a green light triggered by the Israeli border police who observe everything directly from a command center on the upper level of the terminal or by video.
The clip below views back at the area of the iron gate, and then forward to begin the long journey into "No Man's Land."
In the old days, there was no structure for this passage of some 200 yards. It was simply an unpaved, dusty path that could easily turn an ankle and wreak havoc on any luggage wheels. About half way along, baggage carriers would approach and go the distance with you.
With donations from various countries, this passageway was first paved, then roofed and fenced, and then equipped with motorized carts to carry baggage and passengers.
In the clip below, I'm riding on the back of a motorcycle pulling a cart of baggage. There is little turnover among the baggage handlers. I know all of them well.
The journey continues. Forgive the long section showing the ceiling. I thought I had turned the video off and haven't had time yet to delete that portion. Please continue through it to see another segment of the journey.
Now the journey through No Man's Land ends, arriving at the Palestinian Authority immigration point to enter the Strip, known commonly as 5/5. This, and the coming 4/4 are dated call signs for these areas.
A look back from 5/5 to the Israeli terminal.
Before officially entering the Strip, we make the last leg of the journey by taxi from 5/5 to 4/4. Until last October, Hamas also required an entry permit to be achieved in the same manner as for the Israeli permit. 4/4 was its immigration point. As of October 2017, this was stopped as the initial phase of the reconciliation between the PA and Hamas set in; namely, the PA taking full control of the borders - Erez and the southern crossing with Egypt at Rafah. So, now, 4/4 effectively serves as second phase of 5/5, i.e., both are manned by the Palestinian Authority officials.
This last clip ends as you see to the right the former Hamas-staffed immigration buildings at 4/4. It is only after passing the new PA staff that you are officially in the Gaza Strip. Taxis wait there to transport you anywhere in Gaza.
The next post will be of my journey by taxi into Gaza City.
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